My Top 5 Trends of 2010

I wouldn’t call myself trendy.

I prefer to mix vintage pieces and things that I consider classic with a healthy dose of the outlandish and a little nod to a trend of choice. The thing with trends is that by the time they hit our shores they’re already petering out in other parts of the world, and I have a bit of a problem with this phenomenon. I still like to keep an eye on what’s happening, and if I am fortunate enough to have worn something before it is in fashion, then even better (of course!)

In my opinion, a general rule to follow is this:

If it’s in Mr Price then it’s already mainstream.

Sorry. But that is their market, and I have an unfortunate, lifelong aversion to the notion of wearing something that someone else is, too.

With that said, I have made a little list of my favourite trends of 2010 – seen on the runway, around town, and eventually in the chain stores.

1. Chambray

A men’s staple for many years, chambray appeared in dresses, shoes, accessories, shorts and skirts. I’ve always loved chambray and have gotten great wear out of the ruched chambray dress I bought at Michiko last year. It conjures up satisfying undertones of lovelorn, blue eyed cowboys on men, and girl-next-door cool on women.

2. The Evolution of the Wayfarer, etc

After the Wayfarer mania of, oh, the last five years, I think we were all pleased to observe the emergence of a more rounded Ray Ban Wayfarer, amidst a sleek profusion of cat’s eyes and other interesting takes on the classic look – different rivets, materials and shapes. I want the Cacharel’s pictured above. Bad. Oh, and, PS: how exquisite is the girl wearing them?

3. The longer length skirt

The rising popularity of the longer length skirt looks set to be with us for a while. Flattering and feminine, it ranges from the full maxi to higher up the calf. I just secured two AMAZING (caps warranted) long vintage skirts and I’m most impatient for there to be a nice cool evening so that I can debut them with a pair of heels and a blouse.

4. The Stripe (Breton, et al)

Spurred on by popular films like Coco Avant Chanel and a renewed fascination with French film stars like Miss Bardot, the Breton stripe was the print of the year. Seen on fashion icons everywhere.

5. Bondage

A personal favourite of mine, bondage-inspired footwear (and clothing) was big in 2010. An extension of the fetish undertones of the gladiators that were popular a few years ago, shoe designers like Kirkwood and Louboutin pushed the bondage boundaries. Shoe-boots, boots, heels and sandals all got the S&M makeover. A rising tide of leather (courtesy of designers like the incredible Helmut Lang) on the catwalks punctuated the trend. L.O.V.E.

Kaleido

In the late 1990’s, when I was about 12 – the stereotypical type, gangly legs, with braces and spectacles – there was an obsession with digital print, rave-inspired clothing. Bell bottoms in trippy prints were available only at Main Bazaar, a hippie den on Knysna Main Road, where a psychedelic dude pressed peace sign pendants into our palms and we perused the bong selection, unsure of what we were browsing at. Knysna was prime property for the late 90’s spill-over from rave culture and the early roots of trance, being that it was and still is a seaside refuge for corporate wash ups and people that want to spend their days doing, well, not very much. Perhaps a jumble sale here, a stint as a ceramicist there. Your general freeloading, hitchhiking and bead-wearing. Anywho. My friends and I spent our time hanging out at the Knysna movie house and repeatedly going into the local surf shop in the hopes of catching a glimpse of a blonde-haired, square-jawed guy called Tony. And we wore near-matching digital print, kaleidoscopic dresses that our moms had bought us, either at Main Bazaar, or, if you were lucky, from Space Station in Cape Town (along with plastic Hello Kitty clips and, in my case, a bubblegum blue faux fur jacket… so 90’s!)

Now it seems that the kaleidoscope trend is making a comeback, albeit in a much finer, more elegant fashion (no bell bottoms, no rainbow tie-dye references). Following on from the digital print trend, kaleido print has been seen on the runway at Alexander McQueen (worn by Camilla Belle on the red carpet) and also locally in ELLE New Talent competition winner Cleo Droomer’s winning collection, which is utterly beauteous. I just love the shape and sleekness of his bouffant PVC jackets. Find an interview with Cleo and the thinking behind his kaleido collection in the latest issue of ELLE.

10 trends to try this Summer

My sock/heel dabble has ignited a hunger for more trends to try, more experiments, more troublesome mornings spent tearing through piles of clothes and leaving the house in utter uncertainty. It makes things interesting. We often settle on a cycle of easy outfits that reoccur periodically, and then lapse into periods of thoughtless, uninspired dressing because we need to get to work or college for the day. Okay, so there are days when I slip into my easy (aka hangover) outfit, but I always make sure to include some small little gem that speaks volumes about my personality. I say every day should be taken as an opportunity to don something inspiring, even if its a vintage brooch that has a story, or a scarf that always catches peoples’ eye. When daily dressing becomes a mere matter of comfort, then it’s time to change it up a little.

I have thus rounded up a selection of 10 cool trends that I intend to experiment with for Summer. And so should you!

1. Yellow fever

Yellow is Summer’s hottest colour. More specifically, bright yellow; primary, acid, canary yellow, on nails, accessories, dresses and footwear. My mom always told me that yellow was not my colour, because I am too ‘sallow’ for it. Sorry Marmalade. Hier kom die geel!

2. Matchpoint

Luxe sportswear returns as a major trend this season. Look out for gamey stripes, sporty headbands and sports apparel-inspired detailing. I wouldn’t mind a baseball-inspired cropped jacket in a luxe fabric to sling over party dresses.

3. Clogdance

Who saw it coming? The return of the uber-functional, extra-clunky shoe popularised by Heidi and other iconic Europeans in Lederhosen. I’ve already worn my Woolworths clog-inspired high heel sandals on numerous occasions and I can’t stop looking at them lovingly. Full clogs, next on the list.

4. Baby makes her blue jeans talk

Bad song reference, but denim moves from wardrobe basic to centrestage this season. From chambray shirts and dresses, to Alexa Chung denim short shorts and more treated varieties of denim, find what works for you and stick with it. Denim short shorts can be touch-and-go and I saw some real shockers at Rocking the Daisies, but a hard-and-fast rule is that if we can see your butt cheeks then they’re too short / too ripped. My chambray denim dress has already served me well this Spring (bought at Michiko, but also spotted at Mango recently) and I am now eyeing a white denim dress I spotted in the latest Elle.

5. Maxi vs Mini

It’s a summer of proportions and choices, with the maxi and mini dress vying for equal attention. I bought this most luxe, full navy maxi last summer from Poetry and have already started wearing it again. Minis are always on my list, but I am on the hunt for some Summer party dresses. After re-watching the Burberry Prorsum S/S 2011 show on FTV earlier this evening, I am lusting after something equally as bright, structured and blossom-like. How?! Send suggestions.

6. Just Press Print

Prints and patterning are still prominent, with stripes, tribal, digital and animal prints still in pride of place. No wardrobe is complete without a permanent cache of stripes and leopard print, in my book. Today I am kicking off my trend adventure with stripes, the easiest of them all – considering my impressive stripe collection – in a vintage button up dress with sailor style cuffs and collar. I’ve never worn it before because its almost entirely transparent, but I rummaged through my cupboard and surfaced with a navy dress that is serving as a slip. The stripe incorporates a zip of yellow, too. Will tweet a picture a bit later!

7. Espadrilles

I must say that I am not a fan of the classic espadrille, having witnessed legions of Rhodes jocks butcher them alongside a pair of T-savs (aka Judrons) and a Polo shirt. I will thus not be wearing the classic espadrille, but Country Road does a great, user-friendly variation on the theme, with their cute espadrille-inspired pumps and wedges. Love these Louboutin espadrilles, and you should see his take on the espadrille bootie!

8. Milk it

Matte, pastel nails are still big for Summer. Get your paws on some covetable Chanel Jade, or settle for one of Essies darling buds of May.

9. Coral

Another hot colour for Summer, this season’s coral comes in a delightful array of shades, from sorbet to scene-stealing brights.

10. The full-skirted 50’s

This season sees a profusion of 50’s style full skirts, hurrah!

* Trends inspired by Elle, FTV, various fashion blogs and Cape Town street style.

Sock it to me sock it to me sock it to me

Socks with heels. A big trend for this Spring, but I am yet to see many Capetonian girls out and about, daring to let their socks get sexy. In fact, the only person I’ve seen wearing the look so far, is Jackie Burger, Editor of Elle.

She, of course, made it look easy, but my research suggests otherwise. From advice on the type of socks to wear, to lengths, fabrics and shoes, online opinions on the topic are varied.

And so, today, I am taking on the challenge myself! I’m a little unprepared, and would have liked to have purchased the glittery Lurex Dorothy-and-the-Wizard-of-Oz style anklets I saw at Woolies a couple of weeks ago, but it just so happens that I have an existing penchant for “jazzy” stocking socks.

Will report back with observations on what people thought and said, whether or not I felt like a German tourist, and the obligatory round of quizzical looks I usually get when making my twice-daily Beluga-courtyard-crossing.

These pictures are my inspiration:

The Church of Crystal Birch

Please do yourselves a favour and go look at my new friend Crystal Birch’s first collection for 36 Boutiques.

Crystal is a seriously talented milliner, has really distinctive personal style and loves all things weird, wondrous, mismatched & slightly off-centre (which is why we clicked from the start!)

I wholeheartedly believe that securing yourself one of her handmade fascinators or hats is an investment, because this girl is goin places.

I have my eye on Plop or Flight! So deliciously verdant.

Bicyclette

On Saturday I had a lovely languid day in the sun at the 10 and 5 Biggest Bierfest… Cape Town’s finest were out in their finest, sipping on Coronas with lime, nodding heads to music, munching on potato salad and bratwurst and getting a little silly in the sun, all beneath a makeshift canopy of flags, parasols, pretzels and a blue blue sky. It really restored my faith in Cape Town’s creative scene, which can sometimes be elitist, snooty and to be honest, derivative. The 10 and 5 team pulled out all the stops and it was a lovely, happy way to kick off Loeries weekend, with name tags, Facebook Like stickers (see my weekend tweets for the things I Liked) and friendly, fun people in abundance.

Anyway, in a very round about fashion, the Bierfest got me thinking about bicycles… I admit this is a very loose connection, but I think it was the combination of sun dappling down onto summer frocks and bare legs and the carefree atmosphere that did it. Having seen more and more Capetonians taking to the streets on their bikes, I did some research into the cycle chic phenomenon that’s making fashion-forward guys ‘n girls the world over more mobile, one velo at a time. Popular in Europe and Asia, cycle chic is the term given to those who choose bicycles as their chief form of transport and who ride in their normal clothes, rather than spandex and helmets. The phrase was coined by Copenhagen filmmaker and photographer, Mikael Colville-Andersen, after he launched the blog Cycle Chic, a chronicle of Copehagen’s bicycle culture, in 2006. Since then, Cycle Chic has been voted a Time Top 100 blog and has been described as ‘The Sartorialist on two wheels’. Colville-Andersen’s advocation of urban cycling and the joys of velo-venturing are contagious, with stylistas all over Europe taking to the streets on their fietse. You just have to look to The Sartorialist himself to see the amount of beauties bicycling around Paris, New York and Milan.

Cape Town looks set to follow, with the city’s IRT system unveiling numerous bicycle lanes and velo-lovers wheeling their way to events around the city. At the You and Me and Everyone We Know market, I saw quite a few cycle chicsters, and the Greenpop crusaders carried out their De Waal Drive flashmob on foot and on fiets. My friends in London and Sydney have also started biking around town. Perhaps it is time to break out the old bike?

My personal bike is an ancient maroon Avalanche that I wouldn’t be seen dead on. I have something more like one of these sleek Schwinns in mind. Or a pink lady to peddle down Kloof.

This is my favourite. I would just love to ramble around town in this outfit on my bike – the incongruence of it is most delightful.

Betties have been making bikes look stylish for decades. Love Audrey Hepburn’s riding outfit, she looks so chic and girlish.

Don’t you just want to go for a ride now? Breeze in your hair, the sun on your neck, that childhood feeling of going too fast down a hill, experimenting with the tautness of the brakes and seeing your hands gripping the handlebars in front of you… Yay! I spotted a gleaming black second hand bike in Knysna while I was there, with glossy old-fashioned hubs over each wheel and a sleek retro body. Next purchase?

Off the cuff

Cuffed sandals are big for Spring / Summer. And I must state that I am not convinced. I could, at a push, deal with these Chloe cuffed gladiators…

BUT I have two concerns:

1. They aren’t exactly ideal for Summer, being that they cover a large portion of the foot and ankle.

2. And here I must quote Seth Green in one of my favourite adolescent films, Can’t Hardly Wait:

“Do they serve an orthopaedic function?”

Some of them look like ankle braces and/or bandages.

A case of the walking wounded?

Just a thought.

Tress Stress – The Big Chop

Tomorrow I am cutting my hair.

Long hair today, just shy of shoulder length tomorrow.

This may not seem like a big deal to you, but I have not shorn my locks since a fateful day 10 years ago (yes, ten years ago), when I succumbed to a trend and cut it all off. Short. Boy-short. It was not elfin-like and I did not look like Carey Mulligan or Winona Ryder, or any other cropped-crop pixie. Thankfully I was oblivious to this fact, and because it was a trend, was surrounded by other equally misinformed girls.

 But as the years passed and I looked back on the photographic evidence, I saw the wood for the trees, or rather the crop for the crap, as it were. And I vowed to never go short ever, ever again.

 That was a long time ago. Since then I have become a trim maniac: “Not more than an inch, please!” I say, with large, shiny eyes and white knuckles. You would think that with this all this cautious trimming I’d be able to sit on my hair by now, but, to add insult to injury, my hair is determined to grow at a snail’s pace. People like to say “Oh, don’t worry, it’ll grow back”. It makes me want to brooklax their Biscuit Mill Bloody Mary’s.

Now you see why tomorrow is a Big Day for me and my hair.

 In this month’s Elle, Dion Chang described the complex bond that binds hairdresser and client perfectly when he called it an ‘intimate relationship’. A most intimate relationship. Many people stay with the same stylist for years, and are beside themselves when forced to move. Intensive research ensues and second and third opinions are then sourced…

 Lourens of The Hairdresser, Knysna, cut my hair from primary school right through to the end of university. During term time I would snip away at my split ends and wait patiently for vac so that he could tend to my locks personally. And so, it is to Lourens that I entrust my tresses tomorrow. An institution in Knysna, Lo, as he is affectionately called by those in the know, has been keeping the damsels of Knysna chic for nearly two decades. Surely the keeper of many a skandaal, Lo is also edgy as all get out, and has great taste and an amazing laugh.

 And so I take the plunge, with the knowledge that Lourens knows my hair and knows me, too. Shoulder length hair is a big trend right now, with celebrities all over Hollywood opting for different looks: a choppy Alexa Chung tangle or a wavy Drew Barrymore bounce? A sleek Gwyneth Paltrow bob or a chic shag like Freja Beha Erichsen?

My inspiration is this Liv Tyler tousle:

 Wish me luck!

Shoe-fetishists beware

Despite making me emotional with desire, these shoes (can you call them shoes when they’re actually art?) also make me sad. Because they’re not on my feet.

All the result of collaborations with Milanese fashion house, Pollini, they are my muse for the week. Headed up by design duo Nicholas Kirkwood and Jonathan Saunders, Pollini collaborated with Michael Van Der Ham, Peter Pilotto and Meadham Kirchhoff to produce these bright-eyed beauties. How to find something vaguely similar? No idea.

And they are velvet! Crushed. Velvet!

I’d learn Mandarin backwards for the lime or powder blue pair.

Click to see the full images, it’s worth it.

* Thank you Katy Mills for brightening my inbox with these this morning! x

Cast your vote – to romp or not to romp?

The time has come for me to get a second opinion.

I have my eye on a silk romper but am hesitant to commit to the all-in-one trend, which reminds me of catsuits, unitards and overalls (all touch ‘n go trends, to say the least!)

Help!

Q&A, Katy Jardine Mills

Here she is! Miss Katy Jardine Mills.

I am hesitant to use the term, but Katy is my BFF. We’ve been friends since she moved to my neighbourhood when we were 10, and we discovered our mutual love of Cat Deeley-era MTV, Britpop and of course, fashion. 

Not much has changed, except Katy now lives in Sydney with her lovely boyfriend Alex (pioneer of dance moves including the one-armed push up and a very stylish boy to boot) and we email each other pictures of our purchases between reunions in Knysna and Cape Town, with tentative plans to start an style empire called Kate & Katy sometime in the future. Besides having great personal style, Katy is also an extremely talented interiors stylist for an Australian magazine house. These are some of the interiors spreads that Katy has styled:

This is Katy’s style profile.

Q&A

Best fashion advice from your parents?

Don’t leave the house looking like a tart! My father always threatened me.

Style icons? 

Johnathan Adler, Miuccia Prada, Kate Moss (she always get it right). My grandmother, Barbara, and her friend Mary are always so stylish. They’re always on the hunt for something gorgeous, and usually bring me something fab back from London . I want to still be that stylish when I am in my 70’s!

Describe your personal style.

Trendy without being a trendoid, colourful, feminine and fun.

Favorite designers locally and internationally?

Scanlan & Theodore (Aus), Sass & Bide (Aus), World (New Zealand), Prada and whenever I come home, Colleen Eitzen. When I’m in SA I always shop at Vertigo – I think their stuff is really cute.

Most cherished item?

My recent birthday present – a Cartier Santos ladies watch.

Handsome horse bought at local treasure trove, Hadeda, just off Dunkley Square, during a visit home.

I feel best wearing…

Denim shorts, cons and a nice top. I usually ride my bike around so I have to be bike-ready, which is why shorts are good.

I’d sell my soul for…

These Balenciaga heels!

Never caught wearing?

Jeggings , white lycra, Crocs. {That’s my girl!}

My next “must have” purchase is…

Clog style shoes with wooden heels and a new summer bikini, hopefully from Tigerlily.

Favourite 3 items of clothing?

Electric blue Nike hightops – I wear them on shoot days because I’m on my feet for hours and comfort is a must. A butterfly beaded necklace bought with my good friend Eva at Spitalfields market in London. My gold World dress teamed with purple suede Ralph Lauren heels.

Most stylish city?

 Tokyo – so fashion forward yet so historical and private at the same time.

When I was high school I wore?

Braces, boy-short frosted-tipped hair and navy Vans – oh my how things have changed!

 My favourite secret spot is…

In Sydney it’s a little beach called Camp Cove – it’s not too busy and they sell fresh watermelon juice there. In Knysna, it’s out on a boat on the lagoon or out at sea – there is nothing like it.

Most underrated trend or style? 

Bowties.

 My favourite band / artist when it comes to all things fashion…

The Strokes.

 Favourite cocktail?

Cosmopolitan – I have one every Friday night religiously.

The next big thing is…

50’s housewife dresses are back in time for Summer, and fur is going to be massive for Winter. Yellow is a strong colour for Spring in both fashion and interiors.

 

* Thanks for gracing The Pessimiss with your words and pictures Miss Mills. I miss you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tuesday: Style Q&A with Katy J. Mills

Tomorrow I am featuring my best friend and Sydney style sleuth Miss Katy Mills right here on The Pessimiss! Katy has an eye for all things unusual and is one of the most fun people I have ever known. She is also a really talented interiors stylist with a distinctive style that extends to both her wardrobe and her home.

Here is a little amuse-bouche of what to expect from Katy’s cool Q&A.

(Google ‘amuse-bouche’. I apologise for the sheer pretentiousness, I just couldn’t resist!)

Alexandre Herchcovitch!

I have only just discovered Brazilian based designer, Alexandre Herchcovitch, and I am smitten. These images are taken from his Spring 2010 collection – the crayon colours and voluminous, tulip-like silhouettes are so gorgeous! Famous for his eclectic prints and avant-garde aesthetic, Herchcovitch is fast becoming a runway favourite, with Kanye West and Leigh Lezark among the fashion forward celebs spotted in the front row.

I am still firmly on the fence when it comes to the romper, but I just love how this coral romplet incorporates bloomer-style detailing.

Love this interesting use of crayola colour and leather – striking and edgy.

Herchcovitch’s talents have also been tapped by fellow Brazilian brand Melissa, to produce a range of classically Melissa shoes, including these rubber wingtips. My mom has had this exact pair for a couple of years now, and I only just realised that they are the result of a collaboration with Herchcovitch. I love this modern take on the wingtip. They’re perfect for tuxedo-inspired looks and go well with stockings. I know this because I once, in desperation, wedged my size 7 feet into my mom’s dainty size 5 pair for a day. It was worth it.

Girl/Boy Song

I am addicted to any kind of men’s tuxedo reference in women’s clothing.

I have a collection of tuxedo-esque pieces; from ruffle front blouses, to bow ties, hats and jackets that hint at tops and tails. It’s a fetish. You will have seen the girl tux trend for some time now, but it really is a classic shape, favoured by the likes of Kate Moss, Gwyneth Paltrow and Kate Bosworth (all style icons in their own right).

My brother bought a top hat last week, and wearing it around the flat all weekend has inspired me to have a tuxedo day today.

For me, the best thing about tuxes on girls is that they call up a whole narrative of decorum, ceremony and romance, all turned on its head. It’s incredibly potent.

My take on the tux:

1. This pared down tux shirt is actually sleeveless. I bought it on sale at Country Road earlier this year after giving it longing looks for a few months.

2. The grey linen trousers, believe it or not, are my father’s actual tux trousers from his and my moms’ wedding! They fit me in the waist and I love that they are slightly cropped on the ankle because of the fit. He thinks it is hilarious that my brother and I share them, and we think it is hilarious that he once fitted into them.

3. The bow tie is an actual bow tie – its velvet and vintage and has served me well. I often wear it as a headband and people tend to ask me if I am wearing a giant bow tie on my head. Yes, I am.

4. This jacket is absolutely gorgeous. It was handmade my friend Olivia’s mom, who is an extremely talented seamstress, and who sews individual pieces like this from scratch, without a pattern. It has tight sleeves, covered buttons at the cuffs and at the back it dips into two tails, which can be tied forwards around the waist. I am wearing them loose.

I live my days in the hope that it will be passed on to me.

5. My shoes are Nine West, a few years old and quite seldom worn, but they work with the tux because they are a sort-of take on the classic men’s wingtip shoe. I love the combination of the perforated fabric and the high gloss patent finish.

* Trenery and Country Road both do great versions of the female tux, including shirts, trousers and jackets. Alternatively, you can never go wrong with an original second hand men’s tux shirt, as long as it suits your shape.

Do the rump

I am desperate for a pair of leather or suede shorts.

They would make me feel like Alicia Silverstone and Liv Tyler in the Aerosmith video for Crazy / Cryin. I would wear them with a band tshirt and bare feet, lolling around in the Mustang with a lollipop in my mouth, stolen sunglasses on my head, and a pinwheel dangling from my hand…

And they’re perfect for Spring. It’s pretty much the only time a girl could get away with wearing leather shorts bare-legged. Wearing them with stockings just isn’t quite the same. They certainly aren’t for everyone, but I would love to covet a pair. I am going to embark on a hunt for a vintage pair when I go to Knysna next weekend.

Katy (my best girl and Sydney correspondent) sent me a picture of these grey suede Topshop beauties she got for her birthday in August. I love the delicate cut out detailing.

This is Katy.

She has such distinctive personal style and we have been emailing pictures of our purchases back and forth since we were 17 and she first left for overseas. All our lives we have often pitched up at the same event in similar outfits, or have bought the exact same things, even with oceans between us. Look out for a style profile on Katy on The Pessimiss soon!

The name of this post was inspired by a song even more sexy than these shorts. It’s by one of my favourite bands, The Black Keys. It’s called Do the Rump & it makes me wanna groove: